“That’s been the case for New Zealand over the past few years. More than a year ago, we decided to move forward with the project – dedicating a full team to assess the quality of restaurants and bringing in additional expertise.”

Tourism New Zealand has confirmed an initial three-year partnership with Michelin Guide. It has committed $2.5m in the current financial year, including $1.9m drawn from the International Visitor Levy. A further $3.8m from that levy will be spent over the following two financial years. This year’s allocation represents just under 2% of the Crown entity’s total planned annual spend of $130m.

The notoriously secretive Michelin organisation would not confirm how many inspectors were travelling to New Zealand, how many might be based locally, or how many restaurants were being assessed.

Latest data from the Restaurant Association of New Zealand shows that of the country’s approximately 20,000 hospitality outlets, some 12,783 are based in the regions that will be covered by the new guide – 7785 in Auckland, 2556 in Canterbury, 2058 in Wellington and 384 in Queenstown-Lakes.

“Inspectors typically review far more restaurants than those ultimately featured,” said Poullennec. “Being listed in the guide in itself is an accomplishment. Then, being awarded a star, it’s another level. A world-class recognition.”

Poullennec told the Herald early feedback from inspectors noted the country’s restaurants had a “distinctive flavour – something to offer to world culinary culture”.

“Local influences, based on local culture, indigenous cultures. But also the local produce, the local know-hows. And at Michelin Guide we do very much value authenticity.”

Poullennec said, internationally, 82% of restaurants that had made the guide reported increased profits.

“That does not mean they will increase their price, but that they will get more customers, and that sometimes they will get customers who are high spenders. They will spend more on wine, which I also think is one of the assets of the [New Zealand] destination. Then you have a ripple effect … hospitality, travel, produce.”

While stars are the most coveted distinction in the Michelin Guide, there are no guarantees any will be awarded in New Zealand.

Currently, just 157 restaurants worldwide hold three-star status, denoting exceptional cuisine worth a special journey.

Another 514 have two stars (“excellent cooking”) and 3060 hold one star (“high-quality cooking”). A further 3458 have Bib Gourmand status, recognising good quality food at a moderate price.

Outside those distinctions, it’s still possible to make the Michelin “selection”, which recognises establishments with good-quality ingredients that are well cooked.

Poullennec said inspectors would make multiple visits to restaurants, sometimes just days before the release of the guide’s final selection. Meals were assessed across five criteria: quality of ingredients, mastery of cooking techniques, harmony of flavours, personality of cuisine and consistency both over time and across the menu.

“We have a ‘no quota’ approach,” said Poullennec. “And from year one to year two, it’s always a new game … many destinations, in year one, do not have a restaurant at three-star level. It’s thought the Michelin Guide can play a role as a catalyst … it’s fostering the elevation, it’s pushing the restaurant to elevate their game.”

Tourism New Zealand chief executive Rene de Monchy said the specifics of the three-year deal were “commercially sensitive” but he confirmed the $6.3m would pay for the restaurant assessment and selection process, promotional activity with Michelin, and the promotion of New Zealand’s hospitality sector within key tourism markets.

TNZ research showed that high-quality food and culinary experiences were an important consideration for 85% of potential travellers from key markets like the United States, China and India.

“And then, talking about the guide specifically, more than 80% of ‘active considerers’ [travellers with the means and desire to visit in the next three years] said they would consider New Zealand more if Michelin was available here.”

The Michelin Guide does not operate in Australia.

At a hospitality summit held last December in Wellington, local operators called on the Government to invest in bringing the guide to New Zealand, potentially entering into negotiations with the Australian Government to share costs.

However, de Monchy said no consideration had been given to a transtasman approach.

“We didn’t talk to Australia about this. In fact, it will be quite good that people will have to come to New Zealand if they want [to experience] Michelin in Oceania – including Australians. It’s a great opportunity for them to jump across the Ditch and enjoy our award-winning restaurants here.

A Michelin connection gives New Zealand ”a world-renowned hook”, de Monchy said.

The initial three-year partnership was “a good amount of time to firstly see what restaurants are awarded at what level and for us to assess what impact that is having”, de Monchy said.

“We’d certainly be looking to extend that period of time.”

While New Zealand had been on Michelin’s radar for some years, discussions became more serious after hype around last winter’s “star-grazing” campaign.

“We hosted food writers and influencers from around the world at a beautiful dinner at Castle Hill in Canterbury. And, actually, the whole premise of that was to come and enjoy our fantastic food and wine in our off-season. ‘Michelin doesn’t come here, but we’ve got a billion of our own stars in the dark skies’ – and that piqued Michelin’s interest,” de Monchy said.

Tourism New Zealand spent around $1.4m on that campaign, centred on a one-night-only, midwinter pop-up restaurant called Pou-o-Kai.

Auckland-based chef Ben Bayly’s menu included pāua pie and crayfish on the half shell with blue cod mousseline, served to 50 international food media, “tastemakers” and social media influencers, many of whom were then assisted to travel for culinary experiences beyond Canterbury.

News of the Michelin expansion into New Zealand was kept under tight wraps until this morning. De Monchy said although no territorial local authorities had been asked to contribute financially to the partnership, “under non-disclosure agreements, we have spoken to those four regions and told them this work is under way and we’re looking, certainly, to work with them to promote any awards that may be given”.

Criticisms of the Michelin rating system have included fears that it places undue pressure on chefs to gain and retain stars.

But last year, chef Nick Honeyman, who co-owns Auckland restaurant Paris Butter and the one-star restaurant Le Petit Leon in the south of France, told the Herald that while local guides were “top-notch”, the Michelin star was world-renowned.

“All chefs and restaurants in New Zealand deserve to experience the power of the guide. It would be like telling our Commonwealth Games athletes that they can’t compete in the Olympics even if they were good enough.”

Kim Knight joined the New Zealand Herald in 2016 and is a senior reporter on its lifestyle desk. She is a former restaurant critic and holds a Master’s in Gastronomy from AUT.