An ever-expanding array of top-notch drinking and dining options is bringing capital energy.
Have you been past Canberra Centre lately? If it’s been a while, it might give you a look-in to how the capital’s dining scene is changing. Matt Moran has moved in at Italianate steakhouse Compa, while Melbourne restaurateur Chris Lucas runs Carlotta, an Italian joint serving mini negronis, spaghetti all’amatriciana and wood-grilled chicken with lemon and anchovy in swish surrounds. Both are refined and ritzy, but duck inside and Tiger Lane, a neon-lit playground of 10 venues, including a bar and street-food stalls, offers everything from Singapore noodles to steamed custard buns. And don’t skip Raku for cut-above nigiri, wagyu and sake.
For something new, drive up to Lunetta, a reimagining of the starship-like modernist 1963 building on Red Hill, and the ACT’s newest hatted venue. Views over the city at sunset are unrivalled, the cooking is fire-driven, and the aperitivo and pasta at Lunetta Trattoria downstairs attracts its own crowd.
But then Canberra does small and intimate well, too. Call into the minimalist jewelbox that is Minima in Yarralumla, and brothers Mork and Benn Ratanakosol have built a menu around their experiences as third-culture kids, then propped it up with a sleeper-hit of a wine list. Over in Phillip, Dada does fusion in a considered setting, while the 12-person counter at Mu Omakase is as personal as it gets.
Independent operators continue to drive things forward, too. Corner brasserie Onzieme in Kingston is the best it’s been, garnishing golden halloumi with persimmon and pistachio and serving grilled cobia with sauce au poivre. Downstairs, 11e Cave is the city’s premier hidden bar, while around the corner newcomer Tintino delivers a more classic wine-bar experience.
In the city, Bar Rochford is still as fresh as ever for cocktails, forward-thinking wine and sharp share plates. Sean McConnell still makes a point of bucking convention at Rebel Rebel – order the wagyu tongue, pick something edgy from the wine list, nod along to the proto-punk playlist.
Come the weekend, you could stay in Braddon all day. Do B-Side (run by the team from the exceptional Intra in Campbell) for chilli-cucumber and peanut on sourdough with an espresso and tonic for breakfast. Go for baccala mantecato and tagliatelle alla carbonara for lunch at Italian & Sons. Hit Eightysix for dinner, or head to Bar Outro, an up-to-the-minute vinyl bar, wine bar and diner run by the crew behind fire- and meat-focused Terra (now in fresh digs) and super-stylish Recess cafe in Griffith, home to Canberra’s fluffiest pancake, it’s gooiest brekkie muffin and a 100-layer lasagne. Late-night, slip into Volstead Repeal for whisky and speakeasy energy.
Paranormal Wines in Campbell has similar energy to Outro, just with more natural wine and hatted cooking from the teeny-tiny kitchen. And Such and Such, the even funner, younger cousin of two-hatted Pilot, is ideal for pre-theatre, or just about any time. Want more contemporary chef-driven fare? Peonee can deliver.
Then there’s the specialty gear. Coconut matcha clouds at Good Neighbour. Killer Swedish cinnamon buns, sourdough and more at Under Bakery. Canteen and Ramen O have noodles locked down. And Beltana Farm in Pialligo has a monopoly on refined farmhouse fare and truffle hunts.
Finally, do not miss AK’s outside the Ovolo Nishi. It’s lunch-only, but AK Ramakrishna (former chef of XO) coaxes deep flavour from family-style dishes, from fragrant chicken peratel to Tamil-style fish curry that tastes like home.
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David Matthews is a food writer and editor, and co-editor of The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2025.
