Excellent bartending pedigree, chef takeovers, footpath seating and a custom-built hi-fi system bring big concept energy to Bar Demo on Enmore Road.
Very few Sydney bars offer such a wildly diverse collection of drinks and sounds as this cute 50-seater, in the beating heart of the inner west. Fewer still with footpath seating.
Imagine taking in the human traffic of Enmore Road – ice-cold martini, glass of wine or doughnut-milk cocktail in hand – while listening to Japanese jazz and British post-punk, and snacking on thick-cut crisps with goat’s cheese dip. At Claudia Morgan and Oliver Churcher’s newish little bar, you can.
The bartenders share a resume that includes Double Deuce Lounge, Bentley, Bar Louise and Cafe Paci. Despite their pedigree, Bar Demo is not a cocktail bar. It’s not a wine bar, either. They might have a custom-built hi-fi system and play all their music on record (tunes tick from grunge to indie to electronic), but it’s no listening bar. It’s more of an amalgamation of things they love, served in no particular order, executed with an extremely high level of skill. If their audience likes it, that’s great. If not? They’ll play it and serve it anyway. Call it anti-algorithm.
Grab a stool at the bar, or one of the cute little dating booths that line the wall, and immerse yourself in the drinks list. Morgan and Churcher are extremely friendly and happy to make suggestions if you can’t decide between a Spicy Flamingo (tequila, watermelon, yuzu-kosho agave, spicy salt) or a glass of cab sav.
By the glass: a weekly changing selection of special wines that have caught the bartenders’ eyes, served till they’re gone. By the bottle: the list tends towards natural, local and funk-driven. Perhaps a sparkling from Commune of Buttons, or grenache from McLaren Vale winemakers Jauma. Further afield, it might be a riesling from cult Alsatian producers, Kleinknecht.
Keen to make a dent in the wine list but also want to try the cocktails? Consider starting with a two-sip martini chilled to a crisp 15-degrees below zero. The martini menu is worth a dent for the garnishes alone, including a blue cheese-stuffed olive, or a whole gilda (olive, anchovy, pickled pepper) to make it a meal and drink in one.
The cocktail list changes regularly and is broken into classic and modern drinks. Summer fun cocktails such as the Paloma and a raspberry margarita recently replaced the deliciously unhinged Amanda Hugginkiss – an oily, citrusy mix of gin, sake, salted mandarin, coconut, lemon and olive oil. It was on the menu a week ago, and may never be seen again. Vale, Amanda Hugginkiss.
And while the Ma-La-Ga-Rita (chilli-infused tequila, cucumber and lime juice finished with a massive glug of chilli oil) might have been shelved for now, the Man Go Crazy (bourbon, mango, yuzu, lemon and doughnut milk garnished with a chocolatey ice cube) is a fine contender, particularly for the smell of hot chocolate that perfumes the air every time they make one. I’m also keen to go back for a King Kong (bourbon, rum, banana and bitters garnished with a lemon zest).
Snacks? They’re kept low-key (there are crisps, gildas, olives and the aforementioned goat’s cheese dip) except when the bar hosts one of its semi-regular chef takeovers on a Sunday. Past talent includes James Tai and Rahul Tandel (Bentley), Mans Engberg (Mister Grotto) and Pasi Petanen (Cafe Paci).
Despite the big concept energy, this is a fairly relaxed drinking experience. A perfect place to start – or end – an evening. Crank the Japanese jazz and pour a glass of catarratto. You’ve arrived.
Three more wine bars with great cocktails to try
First and foremost, two-hatted Bentley Restaurant’s separate bar is focused on wine, and its by-the-glass list is one of the best in the country. But the drinks team nails classic cocktails too, including a crisp Southside (gin, mint, lime, served up).
27 O’Connell Street, Sydney, bentleyrestaurantgroup.com.au
It’s a neighbourhood wine bar with an excellent pedigree thanks to former Tetsuya’s head chef Josh Raine. Dive into the wine list, or get down to business with a wattleseed espresso martini. Oh, and there’s aperitivo hour from Thursday to Saturday. A double high five for $6 Peronis.
40 Reservoir St, Surry Hills, 40res.com.au
Brace yourselves. This bar and diner from the A.P Bakery empire offers an (ahem) A.Peritivo hour, featuring negronis, gin and tonics and the kind of happy meal we can really get behind: a martini, three oysters and hot chips for $30.
32 Burton Street, Darlinghurst, apbakery.com.au
Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.
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Myffy Rigby is the former editor of the Good Food Guide.
