Paul Ewart
Decked out in waders, I’m standing waist-deep in a shimmering estuary, the salt air sharp and invigorating. In front of me a white linen tablecloth, impeccably set with a bottle of chilled local bubbles, seems to float serenely on the water. James Wheeler, a second-generation oyster farmer and supplier to the likes of chef Neil Perry, bends down, plucks a rock oyster from its bed, shucks it and hands it to me. It is, by far, the freshest oyster I’ve had. And he keeps them coming.
A confession: I’ll really go out of my way for good seafood. And I know I’m not alone. So, when I discovered that a bona fide, oyster-growing capital was a picturesque coastal drive south from Sydney, I was champing at the bit to put the pedal to the metal.
In NSW, the northern coastline, especially around Byron Bay, tends to hog the limelight, but more travellers are waking up to the rich delights of the Sapphire Coast. From breathtaking vistas and one-of-a-kind wildlife encounters to world-class produce and cute historic towns, the area – which runs from Bermagui to the Victorian border – offers a compelling blend of rugged wilderness and cultivated luxury.
After that morning baptism in the estuary during our Merimbula Oyster Tours’ “Tide-to-Table” experience, my friend and I welcomed the chance to warm up at the nearby Safir House. Infrared saunas and ice baths are a dime a dozen in Sydney and this new venue is bringing some big-city bathhouse indulgence to the Sapphire Coast.
Another opening spearheading the town’s evolution from sleepy backwater to sophisticated destination is the Hillcrest Motel. Built in the 1970s, it’s been given a slick makeover and is the perfect base to explore the area’s surprisingly elevated dining scene.
One standout is Merimbula’s Tidal Restaurant, helmed by classically trained chef Gavin Swalwell. The menu showcases the best in ethically sourced seafood and produce from the region. Up the street, Bar Superette provides a sophisticated stop-off for a pre-dinner aperitivo. And if you like history with your hospitality, Banksia Restaurant in nearby Pambula is built inside the heritage-listed Pambula Bank. For breakfast, Toast, with locations in Pambula and Eden, offers a fusion of artisan coffee and innovative brunch dishes.
The accommodation is simple, but being lulled to sleep by the sound of the ocean and the chance to watch migrating whales from your verandah more than makes up for it.
PAUL EWART
In Narooma, the arrival of Sydney hospitality king Justin Hemmes and his Merivale group has created serious buzz. One of its venues, Quarterdeck, is housed in a former oyster shed built over the blue waters of the Wagonga Inlet and pairs tiki-style cocktails with a Mexican-inspired menu; time your visit with the sunset to catch views of pelicans silhouetted against the water.
Speaking of killer views, the cabins at Surf Beach Holiday Park (also owned by Merivale) are perched high above the beach at Narooma and offer uninterrupted views of the nearby Glasshouse Rocks. The accommodation is simple, but being lulled to sleep by the sound of the ocean and the chance to watch migrating whales from your verandah more than makes up for it.
Heading down the coast, we arrive at North of Eden, where a passionate husband-and-wife team run a masterclass in making your own gin. Don’t let the bucolic setting fool you; their award-winning label is heavy-hitting and ranked in the top three for navy-strength gins globally. It’s also the only distillery that doesn’t use imported juniper berries.
Over the course of three hours, I craft a custom recipe in a mini still, all in the company of the distillery’s resident dogs and a curious herd of highland cattle, before emerging as a gin wizard clutching a bottle of my creation.
Naturally, there’s a bounty of pretty white-sand beaches to be had here and a corresponding wealth of wildlife encounters, the most thrilling of which involves joining the team from Underwater Safaris to swim with NSW’s largest colony of fur seals off Montague Island.
Even before we arrive at the seal colony, we’ve seen multiple whales, a pod of dolphins and a shark. But the real magic happens the moment I slip into the water and a trio of young Australian fur seals surround me. They twist and turn, their bodies performing an underwater ballet. Only a previous dive in the Galápagos Islands comes close to the experience.
Back on land, the non-profit Potoroo Palace offers exceptional animal encounters, allowing visitors to walk among and hand-feed rescued and rehomed native animals, such as kangaroos and emus, or you can book a one-on-one session with a koala or wombat.
As my journey draws to a close, I find myself standing on the verandah of the meticulously restored Hotel Australasia, the rhythmic chime of a distant ship’s bell carrying across Eden’s deep harbour. From the exhilarating salt-sharpness of the Merimbula estuary to the soft grunt of a potoroo, the Sapphire Coast has a way of dissolving whatever weight you arrived with. Whether you’re seeking a culinary excellence, wild adventure, or simply want to enjoy the restorative hum of nature – you’ll find it here, one experience at a time.
The writer was a guest of Destination NSW.
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