On the glossy surface it’s all whitened smiles in the modelling industry as we head into Australian Fashion Week, which begins in Sydney on Monday. Backstage and behind the scenes, it’s a different story.
Thin is back in on the runway, AI models are ready for their close-up and luxury retail is facing economic challenges, but Julian Niznik, the new managing director of IMG Models in Australia and Asia, is a glass half full of Diet Coke kind of guy.
“For our industry, AFW is a tremendous opportunity to introduce new faces,” Niznik says. “You have the industry coming together, stylists, creative directors, designers, editors, photographers and the models all in the one place for this one week a year in Australia.”
Having moved to Sydney from IMG’s New York office, where he helped guide the careers of such supermodels as Claudia Schiffer, Shalom Harlow and Bibi Breslin, Niznik is focused on opportunity.
He has already hired a scout to focus on uncovering new talent in Australia and New Zealand to join IMG’s roster of local talent, including Gemma Ward, Miranda Kerr, Billie Jean and Montana Cox.
“Australians, generally speaking, are very beautiful,” Niznik says. “They’re tall, and they speak English, which is a huge advantage when you start an international modelling career. Just looking at the state of Australian fashion and the luxury market – it is super exciting.”
Increasingly, to be on the runway, models also have to be skinny. After a period of size diversity in the fashion industry from 2014 to 2021, championed by plus-size models such as Ashley Graham and Australian Robyn Lawley, major designer labels have snapped back to sample sizes.
Vogue Business reported that mid-size models (an Australian 10-16) made up only 2 per cent of looks at the autumn winter ready-to-wear-shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris in February and March. Plus-size (an Australian 18+) made up just 0.3 per cent, the lowest figure since official tracking began.
“When I was introduced to the industry, there was a massive movement with size inclusivity and body positivity and I feel like curve models were really at the forefront,” says model Cameron Stephens, 25.
In 2019, Stephens appeared in five runway shows at AFW, and went on to be profiled inVogue and appear on the cover of the highly influential Russh magazine.
Stephens has felt the impact of the trend away from body diversity. Along with modelling, she now supports herself by working as a carer.
“It certainly offers balance to my life,” says Stephens, who recently changed agencies to work with The Scouted, which focuses on the mental health of their diverse portfolio. “But I do love modelling and working with creative people. Hopefully, things will turn around. All people want is to see themselves represented in media.”
So far, Stephens has booked three shows next week for AFW and remains hopeful.
“The one thing you can count on in this industry is change. Things are always happening at the last minute,” she says.
To continue promoting diversity on the runway, AFW does have a code of ethics for representation of gender, ethnicity, ability and body types. Last year, on the runway it was difficult to detect, with local labels imitating their international counterparts.
“I’ve personally written to every designer, producer and publicist working on the schedule to reinforce those standards ahead of next week,” says AFW fashion director Kellie Hush. “The expectation is clear, and so is the accountability.”
Carla Zampatti runway shows increasingly include size diversity, but chief executive Alex Schuman says that the decision has to feel authentic to the brand. The label will hold two shows on Monday night, with one for the industry and a ticketed show for the public.
“It’s not that we go in with a tick-the-box approach,” Schuman says. “It’s a genuine look at what the models bring with their energy for our customers. They might be larger, small, brown, white, young or old. We do go to great lengths to take it away from the traditional approach.”
Kathy Ward, a modelling industry veteran and director of Chic Management, which represents Samantha Harris and Chantal Monaghan, says that Australia’s athletic image may help protect it from international pressures.
“There is not the same pressure on our models to be super skinny,” Ward says. “We have become more diverse and inclusive in so many ways. The utilisation of older models is increasing, and we are seeing a huge influx of incredibly beautiful talent from a wide range of different countries.”
AFW is also an opportunity for modelling agencies to put fears about AI models on hold.
In July last year, an AI model appeared in the pages of Vogue in an advertisement for Guess jeans. At Wimbledon, an AI influencer Mia Zelu stole headlines, while Spanish AI model Aitana Lopez can make up to a reported $US11,000 ($15,273) a month.
“We’re not too concerned about AI replacing our models,” says Niznik from IMG. “To become a superstar there are plenty of in-person experiences and runway shows. You can’t replace that with AI.
“Many brands have tested, AI in e-commerce and in catalogues, and it’s not performing as well as a real model.”
Ward at Chic is equally hopeful: “At the moment the industry values authenticity over AI-generated imagery.”
For Ward, a computer image can’t capture the magic of Australian supermodel Abbey Lee appearing on the runway for Lisa Ho at Australian Fashion Week in 2004.
“Some of Australia’s most successful models have been launched at AFW. I remember Abbey Lee’s first show, from memory she opened Lisa Ho and The Sydney Morning Herald featured her on the front page,” says Ward.
“The exposure it gave Abbey at the time was a vanguard moment in her career. AFW is one of the marketing opportunities that can help launch a new and real model’s career.”
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