Robyn Doreian
Karen Martini is best known for her roles in hatted restaurants, her cookbooks and roles on TV shows such as Better Homes and Gardens. Here, the 54-year-old talks about cooking for Prince Harry and Kylie Minogue, her 30-year marriage and a fantasy date involving rock star Nick Cave.
My paternal grandfather, Robert, was born in Tunisia. He was considerably older than my grandmother, Grace. He was very quiet and always observing. He was not the most affectionate man.
At my grandparents’ small terraced house in Flemington [Melbourne], my grandmother was always cooking for my grandfather, or for anyone who was visiting. Fugasse (tuna stuffed fried dough), herbal tea, coffee and gorgeous European soap powder wafted from their house.
My father, Pierre, came from Tunisia to Australia with his parents when he was about 10. He worked hard as a fitter and turner, but growing up he spent a lot of time coaching me in basketball. I suppose he wanted to instil discipline.
Early on, though, Dad spotted that I really loved cooking, that it was not just a hobby. He backed my efforts to leave school and pursue my dream – which, looking back, was pretty radical. He was firm but nurturing and barely got a word in amid my mum, Monica, and two younger sisters, Justine and Odette.
My first kiss happened at 13 at a Blue Light Disco. I had stolen Mum’s sequinned boob tube from her drawer – I got in trouble for that later – and wore it with Wrangler jeans. Madonna’s Borderline might have been playing.
My teen posters of Rob Lowe, Christian Slater and Michael J. Fox were removed from my bedroom walls once I discovered gothic punk and found a boyfriend who matched my obsession. We thought we were Goths, but I mean, how can you be a Goth when you’re from Greensborough?
I went to a girls’ school in Richmond where Dogs in Space was being filmed. We were often late to class so we could get a glimpse of its star, Michael Hutchence. He was an obsession for a while – such a beautiful individual who looked so charismatic.
When I left school, I did my first year of training in the kitchen at the Austin Hospital. I then got to work in hatted restaurants – I was 16 and suddenly working with 26-, 36- and 46-year-olds. The language was rather colourful and a strict hierarchy operated.
Sexism existed from the hospital through every kitchen I worked in. At the hospital kitchen the girls made cups of tea and shaped butter roses. But I developed a thick skin and forged a strong confidence in the industry; that I could match it with the best of them. Hence, no man in that world has intimidated me.
I met my husband, Michael Sapountsis, in 1996 while working at the Melbourne Wine Room. Michael was the head bar manager and I was the head chef. We shared a passion for creating environments where people can enjoy food, wine and socialising.
Michael and I really enjoyed working in a high-pressure environment and spending time together. Michael’s incredibly generous, patient and spirited. We’ve been together for 30 years. He’s seen the full spectrum of me, and I’ve seen the full spectrum of him.
Three months after the birth of each of our daughters – Stella, now 19, and Amber, 18 – I had to return to work on Better Homes and Gardens and My Kitchen Rules. Michael was really hands-on with the girls – I think he would have breastfed them if he could. He’s soft and gentle, but firm as well. He’s a very good father.
I’ve met internationally famous chefs such as Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay. Both have massive egos. I’ve cooked for Prince Harry, John Travolta and Kylie Minogue, but I’d love to cook a birthday dinner for Nick Cave – he’s born the same day as me [September 22], 14 years apart.
I’d take Nick to Bar Carolina, the dining room I oversee in Melbourne’s South Yarra. It’s medium-dark, so I feel he’d be quite comfortable there. Nick is probably a vegan or vegetarian, but for the dinner, I’d be serving squab, fantastic pasta, oysters, champagne and caviar while we got to know each other. Then we’d move on to something like white asparagus, a more complex seafood pasta and a really decadent chocolate mousse for dessert. Strong coffee would follow, and our conversation would go into the wee hours. Susie, his wife, would be more than welcome.
Cook Green and Cook Sweet (both Hardie Grant) by Karen Martini are out now.
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