There’s a backstreet boozer now home to a top chef, reborn watering holes in Kensington and Ascot Vale, and a beer garden on a decommissioned bowling green.
A city pub first built in 1853 has been transformed into a seven-storey, 1000-person “adult Disneyland of food and drink” after a monumental renovation and extension.
On the corner of Flinders and King streets, the newly reopened Waterside Hotel is “the most ambitious project we’ve ever done”, says Doug Maskiell, a director of Sand Hill Road, the hospitality group behind the venue.
The Waterside – right across from the Yarra River – now incorporates a sprawling public bar and beer garden, a South-East Asian restaurant, a rooftop cocktail bar and three dedicated function spaces.
In 2022, Sand Hill Road sold its other pubs – including the Espy and Garden State Hotel – to Australian Venue Co so it could go all-in on the Waterside. What was originally planned as a refurb of the existing building turned into a complete redevelopment of the site that’s taken eight years to come to fruition.
Beyond the heritage facade, everything is brand new. In the street-level beer garden – which plonks you in the dead-centre of the venue – cast your eye to the sky and see the pub’s balconies jutting out above you. It gives you a sense of the scale of the redesign, led by local practice Techne Architecture (Juni, Tonka, Tippy Tay at the Espy).
Classic pub grub reigns on the ground floor. But head up a level to Past Port, the 160-seat dining flagship, for a more elevated menu that traverses South-East Asia. Sarawak laksa – a weekday lunchtime special – nods to executive chef Sarah Chan’s Malaysian heritage. Other dishes span snacks such as son-in-law Scotch eggs, riffing on the Thai dish of fried hard-boiled eggs, and dishes to feast on, including crispy Balinese duck paired with house sambal.
On the third-floor rooftop you’ll find playful drinks such as the Pandan Fizz, powered by vodka and limoncello, plus spritzes on tap.
“The same person can come into the venue three times in a week and have a different experience every time,” Maskiell says.
Open lunch and dinner daily
508 Flinders Street, Melbourne, watersidehotel.com.au
Six new or refreshed pubs – and what they’re best for
For a young-gun chef’s first foray into pubs: Brandon Hotel, Carlton North
The backstreet boozer isback with new owners – and Josh Fry, opening chef for Rocco’s Bologna Discoteca and Poodle, leading the kitchen. The parma remains, but now it’s joined by options such as a “nostalgic” French onion dip with Melba toast, a weekly house-made pie special (perhaps cider-spiked chicken, prosciutto and leek), and the possibility of Sunday barbecues out back. A refit is on the cards for next year.
237 Station Street, Carlton North, brandonhotel.com.au
For fancy steaks in fancy-free surrounds: Doutta Galla Hotel, Kensington
What locals call “the Doot” is finally pouring beers again after a thoughtful, year-long refurbishment by new owner Kickon Group (Continental Sorrento, Fitzroy North’s Terminus Hotel). The three-level pub has upped its dining, with chef Jake Furst firing premium cuts of wagyu on a Josper grill, but also keeping things approachable with bacon cheeseburgers. Monday is locals’ day, promising $20 schnitties and fish’n’chips.
339 Racecourse Road, Kensington, douttagallahotel.com
For a coastal weekender: Esplanade Hotel, Queenscliff
Not far from the foreshore, Queenscliff Brewhouse has been reborn by hospo mega-group Australian Venue Co. It’s had its original name reinstated while the new, nautical-inspired look includes an upgraded beer garden and kids’ play area. The weekday happy hour offers $5 pots, and if you caught the ferry over from Sorrento, flash your Searoad Ferries ticket to get 10 per cent off your bill.
2 Gellibrand Street, Queenscliff, esplanadequeenscliff.com.au
For a dose of kitsch cool: Laurel Hotel, Ascot Vale
Publican Sam Capogreco poured his first beer at the Laurel Hotel, a 172-year-old fixture of Melbourne’s north. He’s come full circle in restoring the Mount Alexander Road watering hole, adding warmth and charm with kitsch couches, artwork and patterned carpets. Capogreco comes from Kickon Group, where he was formerly chief operating officer. He’s introduced $15 wood-fired pizzas all day on Mondays, while Wednesdays are all about trivia, kicking off at 7pm.
289 Mount Alexander Road, Ascot Vale, laurelhotel.au
For “Ralph Lauren meets Prahran” design: High St Hotel, Prahran
What was once The Smith is now High St Hotel, a fresh-faced pub with a fitout channelling Ralph Lauren’s old-school style, offset by a minimalistic facade. Go for fancy snacks like wagyu bresaola crumpets with bone marrow butter; $9 Aperol spritzes every day from 4pm to 6pm; and live sport playing on screens throughout.
213-215 High Street, Prahran, highsthotel.com.au
For boozing on a bowlo green: Banjo’s Social Club Beer Garden, Malvern East
East Malvern RSL’s decommissioned bowling green is your new summer hangout. Extending on the existing Banjo’s Bistro upstairs, the pop-up beer garden has a shipping-container bar with Stomping Ground brews, a Mexican food truck with tacos and nachos, and plenty of picnic tables to spread out on. It’s a kid- and dog-friendly spot led by local publican Matt Vero (Orrong Hotel, Healesville Hotel).
9 Ellison Street, Malvern East, banjosbistro.com
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