Vadouvan is a curry paste thought to have originated in India in an area that was once colonised by the French. Typically, the paste would be cooked and then dried to make using it more convenient, but this is a one-pot recipe – no drying required – with the Madras curry powder saving us from an arm’s-length ingredients list.

The flavours of this paste are milder than most curries, thanks to the use of shallots and garlic, making it an ideal base for delicate seafood. It’s still incredibly flavourful, with its heady spices and fresh curry leaves, and perfect for the (hopefully) last of the cold winter nights.