Not to be confused with the Vietnamese banh mi, the num pang selections at Kampot Kitchen are remixed versions of Cambodian dishes held dear by its owners, couple Jimi Lundy and Sarann Chhoeung.
Sanka Amadoru
Husband-and-wife duo Jimi Lundy and Sarann Chhoeung opened Kampot Kitchen with a newborn in their household and COVID lockdowns, unknowably, mere days away. Chhoeung describes being propelled by her dream and desire to showcase Cambodian culture that was “largely missing” from Melbourne’s food scene. Abandoning those plans to pursue a more stable office job was not an option.
Today, Kampot Kitchen staff greet loyal customers by name and offer broad grins and handshakes. I don’t consider myself a regular, but have visited often enough to know that the quality of the num pang (literally “bread” or sandwiches) is consistently good.
Chhoeung is obsessive with the quality and preparation of ingredients; the pork belly num pang comes with a green apple slaw and the hunks of pork orientated perpendicular to the long axis of the roll. Even distribution of meat and fat is ensured in each bite.
Cuts of beef and chicken are marinated in a paste of lemongrass, lime leaf, galangal, garlic, and shallots, and stir-fried to order. The meat is then placed in a lightly toasted baguette with vegetables that provide counterpoints in texture and flavour – coriander and pickled carrot accompany most sandwiches.
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Meanwhile, the prawn num pang uses a turmeric-coconut cream marinade and coconut flakes. For those seeking a vegetarian option, cubed tofu is seared to caramelisation whilst retaining a soft interior, and slices of shallot help the carrot cut through its richness. (This is slow food in sandwich form, so at peak times, don’t expect sandwiches to be available for takeaway within minutes.)
You will be asked if you would like fresh chilli to be included; these are (probably) a bird’s-eye variety that pack a punch and are grown by Chhoeung’s uncle. If you mistakenly ask for a Vietnamese banh mi, you are unlikely to be corrected. However, ask about the background of the sandwiches foundational to the menu and the staff will describe how theirs are distinct from more traditional Cambodian num pang.
At Kampot Kitchen, there is not a cold-cut in sight. Rather, the sandwich selections are remixed versions of Cambodian dishes held dear by Chhoeung and Lundy.
The lemongrass beef and chicken num pang are interpretations of traditional stir-fries and classic Cambodian skewers, with the latter also available to order.
The khor kho slow-cooked beef rib stew has a delicate sweetness with star anise and lemongrass accents and comes with a side of bread for dipping, or alternatively go for the pulled beef num pang version.
These creations are of enough interest to Melbourne’s Cambodian community that some members of the diaspora will drive an hour across the city to taste them for themselves.
You don’t want to skip the drinks here, either. Not many venues will send a king coconut with a paper straw to the table.
“I feel like I must have a coconut drink because coconut is home, you know, Chhoeung tells me. An alternative reinterpretation of Cambodian iced coffee on the “signature drinks” menu evokes a salted caramel milkshake that glides along the tongue.
Her desire to preserve and reinvent memories of growing up in Cambodia “from a place of intention” is implied by the French-captioned photography and Theravada Buddhist iconography on the walls inside. It’s told through a menu that will speak multitudes to anyone willing to ask and listen between bites.
Three more places to find less traditional East Asian sandwiches
Banh Mi Stand
It’s difficult to pick Melbourne’s best banh mi shop. This tiny shopfront in the CBD levels up the usual formula of a baguette filled with vegetables, herbs, pâté, sauce, birds eye chili, and cold cuts or cooked meats by offering less traditional fillings including confit duck and vegan options.
547 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, instagram.com/banhmistandmelbourne
Three Drops Coffee and Sandwich
Egg drop sandwiches are the specialty here. Fluffy milk bread (shokupan) cradling pillowy mayo- and barbecue sauce-drizzled scrambled eggs achieve the seemingly impossible feat of feeling both rich and light at once. They come with multiple fillings including Korean beef bulgogi and beef rendang, and there are jaffles and baguettes for anyone more crunch-inclined.
The Capitol Arcade, 3/115 Swanston Street, Melbourne, instagram.com/threedropscoffee
Warkop Richmond
Drawing inspiration from the Indonesian archipelago, find novel sandwich filling combinations at Warkop such as fried chicken with stracciatella and chilli condiment sambal merah. A herbed thin-sliced pork toastie and fresh salad might be shared between two, or you can go straight to dessert with the pandan-infused coconut jam and puffed rice in the kaya toast.
12 Risley Street, Richmond and 13 Little Collins Street, Melbourne, warkop.com.au
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