As established names exit the Yarra Valley, three new cellar doors (and a fourth under way) are providing drinkers with good reasons to hot-foot it to Melbourne’s outer east.
Catherine Boucher
The site of Victoria’s first vineyard, the Yarra Valley, is writing a new chapter as legacy winemaking names scale back their physical presence and newer operators with fresh ideas spring up – often without a vine in sight.
Healesville Makers Quarter, established in March in an industrial precinct, is attempting to carve out a name for itself by banding six quality producers together to attract a new audience. Heading out on foot, visitors can indulge in wine, beer, gin and quality dining within one block.
Dino Giammarino relocated his eponymous winery and cellar door from St Andrews in March. He says he was drawn to the precinct’s energy and unique offering.
Ten minutes away in Coldstream, award-winning winery Oakridge closed its fine-dining restaurant in June in response to fluctuating tourist numbers and rising costs.
“We are focusing on the cellar door,” says hospitality manager Gavin Fyffe. “We’ll be able to provide more of a premium tasting experience utilising our restaurant space.”
The Yarra Ranges Council region makes up 6.3 per cent of all day trippers across Victoria, according to most recent figures. That figure has increased from 5 per cent in 2018-19, the last financial year before pandemic-related travel disruption.
Innocent Bystander also closed its Healesville cellar door in March and hit the road. Eager to connect with drinkers beyond the Yarra Valley, it has held interactive pop-up events in Brisbane and Sydney, a strategy it says is working.
“These experiences are attracting a younger, more diverse demographic than the traditional cellar door, particularly Millennials and Gen Z, who are drawn to the more social, playful format,” states communications manager Amy van Bekkum.
There are no current plans to reopen a permanent cellar door in the region.
Meanwhile, Zonzo Estate will open its second venue in the Yarra Valley in October, after revamping the property vacated by Innocent Bystander.
Zoncello Yarra Valley, described by director Rod Micallef as being “the cheeky sibling” to Zonzo’s Yarra Glen winery and restaurant, will focus on the brand’s three spritz products – with a fourth on the way. A restaurant, Italian deli and retail space will complement a bar where people can try the spritz range. Notably, it’s not being called a cellar door.
“We’re building the home of spritz in Australia; it will be a house of innovation for new products,” says Micallef.
Newcomer Storm Ridge Estate opened in May among gently rolling hills in Coldstream; the Dandenong Ranges visible in the distance. The team opted for a more approachable style of cellar door that caters to many types of drinkers, whether seasoned sippers or groups looking to while away the afternoon over a bottle of red.
Three new-wave Yarra Valley cellar doors
Urban Vineyard, Ringwood East
Winemaker Matt Talbot took a punt when he opened this bar-meets-cellar door last year between the local vet and bakery. Near the gateway to the Yarra Valley, it was originally intended to showcase Talbot’s own Patch Wines label alongside other small producers. But a gradual demographic shift meant the leafy suburb’s younger residents were soon asking for more than just weekend tastings. Talbot responded with seating, wines by the glass and a food menu (to be added when the bar moves next door to bigger digs). Such is the communal collaboration, locals even offer their own wine discoveries to add to the eclectic, ever-changing range.
100 Railway Avenue, Ringwood East, theurbanvineyard.au
Giammarino Wines, Healesville
The surf report chalked on the front gate – over an hour from the ocean – is the first clue that passion drives this new cellar door in Healesville Makers Quarter. Then there’s the surfboard propped inside, shadowing a row of wetsuits for sale. Owner Dino Giammarino’s love of surfing is matched only by his obsession with wine, along with that very Italian adoration of family. A photo of a pro Italian surfer gets equal billing with images of the Giammarino clan’s long winemaking story. With a glass in hand and easy banter, you’ll delightfully watch minutes turn into hours. Like an Italian aperitivo hour, small bites are provided gratis – from olives to arancini and crusty bread – to complement nine varietals spanning fiano to cabernet.
30 Hunter Road, Healesville, giammarino.com.au
Storm Ridge Estate, Coldstream
Pull off the highway, cruise along the maple-lined driveway, and you’ll soon spot picnic tables strewn across the lawn and patio. Kids roam free, dogs are welcome, and there are umbrellas and heaters for whatever the weather brings. Nab a seat and order some snacks to fortify you before a tasting flight. There are two (one premium, one standard) but the five wines in each will traverse chardonnay to shiraz, plus fees are waived for any purchase over $50. Toasted brioche with smooth duck pâté, glossy cherry jam and crunchy cornichons is hard to beat alongside a 2019 reserve pinot noir.
860 Maroondah Highway, Coldstream, instagram.com/stormridgeestate
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