Bright spring mornings just got a little brighter thanks to a vibrant spot in Brunswick with a former Builders Arms chef, a homey venue from a cafe connoisseur and a one-of-a-kind newcomer.
Open House, Clifton Hill
Eleven years ago, Nathen Doyle helped open Heartattack and Vine on Carlton’s Lygon Street, creating a fresh destination for all-day European-style wining and dining on the strip – and a fan base for its epic porchetta roll. Now, he’s sold the business and is ready to make mornings magic in another neighbourhood.
“[Heartattack and Vine] was at a point in its lifespan that it needed someone who wanted to put all their energy into it,” says Doyle. “And I’m not that person any more.”
Instead, he’s concentrating on Open House, a new cafe in Clifton Hill not far from where he lives. It replaces what was Tarda cafe.
The menu keeps it simple. “We want it to be an extension of your home,” he says.
Find a few loaded toasts such as folded eggs with pickles, and braised mushrooms with goat’s cheese, with add-ons like house-made kimchi. Sandwiches could include miso egg with kyuri zuke, Japanese pickled cucumbers.
Running the kitchen and floor, respectively, are chef Diego Leon and India Anderson, both ex-Heartattack.
Open House joins Doyle’s other venues: Parkville art gallery diner Residence, and Carlton all-rounder Sunhands. Meanwhile, fellow Heartattack co-founder Matt Roberts now runs Red Park in Ocean Grove.
122 Roseneath Street, Clifton Hill, open-house.com.au
Beautiful Jim Key, Brunswick
In Brunswick, a joyously colourful daytime diner has opened, with serious pedigree in the kitchen.
“We had 15 glass balloons and 30 vintage blue stools before we even had a lease,” says Priyam Chovhan of Beautiful Jim Key, which she’s brought to life with her partner, Josh Murphy, a former Builders Arms Hotel chef.
The breakfast sandwich is a standout: a puck of smoked Lyonnaise sausage from Yarraville butcher Andrew’s, melted cheddar and two sauces (tomato and barbecue) on a potato roll.
But there’s depth and breadth to the menu, from nourishing brown-rice congee to French toast made boozy with the citrusy amaro Montenegro. Lunch could be a lamb schnitzel with green sauce. “We’re trying to make everything bright to match the room,” says Chovhan.
Martinis and oysters are the star of Friday aperitivo hour. And there’s more evening action to come, including guest chef takeovers while Murphy develops a dinner menu.
7 Wilson Avenue, Brunswick, beautifuljimkey.com.au
Mary’s, Collingwood
In Collingwood, Singaporean stalwart The Old Raffles Place closed after 25 years in January. Now the site is Mary’s, a day-to-night cafe celebrating its owner’s Nigerian heritage.
“It was very, very difficult to find food and drink that reminded me of home [in Melbourne],” says Mary Akindele, who also has St Kilda coffee and toastie spot Sam’s.
She’s sourcing spices from Nula Multi, a grocer in Braybrook, to supercharge flavour in quintessentially Nigerian dishes.
“You can’t have a Nigerian restaurant without jollof rice,” says Akindele. Her extra-earthy version is refried in ata din din, a spicy sauce of tomato and capsicum, to order. There’s also suya, a street-food staple Akindele is obsessed with, involving tender grilled beef marinated in a smoky, toasty, peanut-rich rub.
Brunch means ata din din scrambled eggs and a pancake-doughnut hybrid emulating puff-puff, West Africa’s favourite fried dough snack, which Mary’s serves with maple and hibiscus syrup.
68-70 Johnston Street, Collingwood, marys.au
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