The seldom-seem German Holstein schnitzel is popping up on Melbourne menus. And there’s a lot to love about it, including a fried egg, anchovies and the crispy (usually veal) schnitty itself.
If the parma is the king of loaded schnitzels, the seldom-seem Holstein is the queen.
The German Holstein schnitzel traditionally stars breaded, fried veal that’s crowned with a fried egg and anchovies, often capers and lemon, and a rich brown-butter sauce.
“While [it’s] a classic, it’s not commonly found on menus these days, even in Germany,” says Philipp Hockenberger, brand manager of Bavarian beer hall Hofbrauhaus, which has previously served the Holstein. But the souped-up schnitzel is gaining traction.
When chef Barney Cohen first put it on the menu at Bar Bellamy in 2023, “the feedback was very positive but the younger crowd still seemed hesitant to order veal”, he says, citing some misunderstanding about what it is and how ethically it’s reared.
But in his current role as head chef of the North Fitzroy Arms, Cohen has seen a shift. “In [the] 2025, post-COVID, post-anchovy-toast era of Melbourne dining – where fondness for the nostalgic reigns supreme – it feels like the time of the Holstein is finally upon us.”
A great Holstein is indulgent but impressively balances the saltiness of the anchovies and richness of the egg (and brown butter) with the sharpness of the capers and lemon.
Here are four versions to try around Melbourne.
For an extra-large traditional take ($48): North Fitzroy Arms
The as-big-as-your-head Holstein is a permanent fixture on this pub’s specials board.
A 250-gram piece of veal topside from NSW’s Northern Rivers is “carefully and delicately beaten out and tenderised, then crumbed in traditional breadcrumbs … not a panko in sight”, says Cohen.
It’s pan-fried in clarified butter; dressed in a sauce of brown butter, reduced chicken stock, white wine, lemon juice, capers and parsley; topped with a fried egg and Yurrita anchovies; and garnished with watercress and a lemon wedge.
296 Rae Street, Fitzroy North, northfitzroyarms.com.au
For a slightly customised classic ($37): O’Connell’s Hotel
South Melbourne’s O’Connell’s Hotel has entered a new era, with a new menu and chef –Oakridge alum Aaron Brodie – who, controversially, is “not a huge fan of parmas”.
A Holstein fills the void. Veal topside sourced by meat supplier Flinders + Co is coated in parmesan-spiked panko. A fried free-range egg is true to tradition, accompanied by two pickled elements – white anchovies and shallots – “to help cut through the richness”, plus crispy capers, a red-wine and brown-butter sauce, and a sauerkraut-like side of cabbage and carrot.
407 Coventry Street, South Melbourne, oconnells.com.au
For a pork-starring alternative ($30): Ophelia
With Northcote cafe Ophelia recently launching regular dinners, executive chef Mitch Velo was on the hunt for dishes that could transition from day to night. “With the fried egg being commonplace on the Holstein schnitzel, it made perfect sense,” he says, having settled on a version that is “by no means traditional … but nods to the classic”.
The most notable departure? Free-range pork scotch, pounded into a palm-sized portion, panko-crumbed and deep-fried. As well as the usual suspects – a sunny-side-up egg and Yurrita anchovies – it comes with chopped caperberries, house-made smoked-tomato relish, garlic aioli, and a herby salad with pickled fennel. Olive oil replaces the brown butter.
85 High Street, Northcote, opheliawestgarth.com.au
For a sandwich spin that subs in chicken ($24): Vic’s Meat
In Chadstone’s new Market Pavilion, butcher-shop-slash-deli Vic’s Meat – from the Victor Churchill team – does a handheld Holstein that “hits different”.
“[The original dish has] everything we love: crispy schnitzel; richness; big, bold flavours,” says head chef Regan Grove. “Putting it in a sandwich just made sense.”
Instead of veal, Bannockburn free-range chicken thigh is the main event, brined overnight, crumbed in seasoned panko, then fried until deeply golden. It’s layered on a grilled milk bun with house-made mayo (flavoured with anchovy, mustard and parmesan), a soft fried egg, capers, butter lettuce and a thwack of chilli-garlic paste.
Shop G119, 1341 Dandenong Road, Chadstone, vicsmeat.com.au
Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.
