Paul Ewart
I’m suspended in a moment of pure, cinematic gold, gazing down at the turquoise ribbon of the Pacific Ocean as it crashes against the glittering sands of Bondi. Above the low roar of the engines, I feel a dizzying rush as our Sydney Seaplanes flight banks sharply, bringing the iconic Harbour Bridge and Opera House into view. Below, the urban sprawl gives way to a quilt of lush national park that culminates in the narrow, gilded peninsula I’ve come to explore. This isn’t just transport. It’s an experience in itself – a magnificent reminder that Sydney’s famed northern beaches are not just a coastal escape but a spectacular playground for the luxe-loving set.
New York has the Hamptons, and Sydney boasts its own stunningly narrow, gilded peninsula: Palm Beach and the tranquil, mirror-like waterways of Pittwater. And while the hour-long drive to “Palmie” (as the peninsula is known to locals) is easy enough from central Sydney, for a high-roller arrival a seaplane flight is the only way to go.
Departing from the purpose-built terminal in Rose Bay, I journey to my first stop on Cowan Creek, landing right next to one of the region’s culinary gems – the secluded Cottage Point Inn. Following in the famous footsteps of the likes of Brad Pitt and Cameron Diaz, I enjoy one of the loveliest long lunches in memory, a multi-course degustation menu of modern Australian dishes focusing on fresh local seafood alongside perfectly paired wines.
Speaking of breathtaking views, the position of Pretty Beach House – high above the village of Pretty Beach, nestled deep in the Bouddi National Park on the other side of Broken Bay – ensures stunning bush and ocean vistas. A member of the Luxury Lodges of Australia collection, the boutique property is easily accessible via a short ferry ride from Palm Beach.
Comprising four “pavilions”, three of which have their own private, heated plunge pools, the luxury getaway features everything even the most picky of luxury hotel lovers need, from oversized tubs and generous beds to private terraces. I barely leave during my two-day stay except for short hikes on several nearby coastal trails.
However, the star of the Pretty Beach show is undoubtedly the all-inclusive, all-day dining, the kitchen composing ever-changing modern Australian menus using locally sourced seafood, organic fruit and vegetables and native ingredients. There’s also a dangerously good cellar of premium Australian and international wines.
Before dinner, I enjoy expertly mixed martinis and a selection of canapés before settling in for the Chef’s Table experience. Seated at the table adjacent to the open kitchen, I can chat intimately with the head chef as each delicious course is plated up and explained, turning the meal into an educational performance. The inevitable “detox” element of any fancy resort package arrives the next day via the in-house Bouddi Spa, where I’m slathered with aromatic native oils and revived using traditional Aboriginal healing methods.
In contrast to the high-profile glamour of Palm Beach, Great Mackerel Beach offers a genuinely secluded, lesser-known escape that feels like a private island getaway. Tucked away on the western side of Pittwater, within Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, this tranquil cove can only be reached by a short ferry ride from Palm Beach Wharf, a water taxi or a private boat. The absence of cars and shops immediately slows the pace of life, creating a peaceful, barefoot-luxury atmosphere.
The charming Sandstone Cottage is the scene of my serene Palmie finale. One of Great Mackerel Beach’s original houses, the dreamy shack is set on the absolute beachfront and its views are nothing short of jaw-dropping, allowing me to surrender to the rhythm of doing little more than swim, sleep, read, eat … and repeat.
I fall asleep to the gentle lapping of the water and wake up to wallabies chomping on vegetation in the bush and colourful parrots hanging out by the window. Instead of car keys, I grab one of the provided kayaks and glide straight into the calm, inviting waters of Pittwater, embracing the invigorating salt-sharpness for my last few hours of paradise before the return ferry.
From the exhilarating high-roller arrival by seaplane to the soft coo of a native bird in a bush-clad haven, this corner of Sydney has a way of dissolving whatever weight you arrived with. Whether you come in search of culinary excellence, wild adventure, or simply the restorative hum of nature, you’ll find it here, one blissful breath at a time.
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