Emily Taylor
The relationship between youth and beauty is as old as civilisation itself. The Mesopotamians employed oils, mud packs and herbal balms to smooth skin while the ancient Egyptians favoured a rejuvenating dunk in sour milk.
Now, though, “anti-ageing” – a term that has come to define a whole category of skincare and make-up products for decades – is being subtly yet strategically erased from the beauty lexicon. In its place are softer, smarter words such as longevity, skin health, resilience and optimisation. Longevity, in particular, has become a beauty buzzword for good reason – it prioritises a foundational approach to holistic skin health that is infinitely more appealing than cosmetic quick fixes.
But turning the tide takes time. As brands commit to consciously uncoupling from a time-worn model at the behest of a savvier consumer with “menopause money” to spend, experts are divided on whether the shift is structural or if it’s lip service to a demographic that has been largely untapped.
The paradigm shift
Acceptance is the foundation for change, and on this topic, we must face facts: our skin ages as we do. “I tend to avoid the term ‘anti-ageing’ because, quite simply, we can’t stop ourselves from ageing,” says cosmetic physician Dr Yalda Jamali. “It is a privilege and should be celebrated rather than feared.”
Dr Jamali, who offers clinical facial treatments at her Sydney practices, remains matter of fact: “Every day, our bodies undergo natural physiological changes. The skin is simply one of the few organs where those changes are visible to the world.”
The shift in mindset points to rejection of a model which considered the midlife complexion a problem to be solved via invasive procedures, from deep peels to aggressive injectables. Dermatologist Dr Bonnie Fergie, founder of skincare brand Bon Elliot, believes the traditional anti-ageing mindset treats the face “as an inanimate surface that can be injected, bleached or stripped”.
She adds, “Often, I see skin that doesn’t move or has been filled, but it’s dull, dehydrated, blotchy, rough or irritated, and it doesn’t look great because, ultimately, it’s not healthy.”
The alternative approach, she explains, begins far below the surface. “A modern approach works with the physiology of the skin, in particular its natural health networks, and uses better ingredient technology in thoughtful formulation to achieve efficacy.”
In parallel to this clinical about-turn, a cultural transformation is occurring, driven by the demographic that was once anti-ageing’s prime target. “Today’s ‘middle-aged’ women have brought on this shift, owning their age but also their wisdom and experience,” says Terry de Gunzburg, founder of noted French beauty brand By Terry. “It’s only natural, then, to own your skin and look after it, [keep] it healthy and glowing rather than trying to always look 25.”
While the evolution has been a slow burn, de Gunzburg believes it has allowed a generation raised on anti-ageing rhetoric to build confidence. “Women have come to understand that prevention matters far more than simply patching things up,” she concludes, citing UV protection and the hydrating effects of hyaluronic acid as ways of prolonging radiance and boosting skin quality.
On paper or on purpose?
While science and the zeitgeist appear to agree on this proactive approach, some experts, such as Aleph Beauty founder Emma Peters, remain slightly sceptical. The New Zealand make-up artist built her brand around tackling “the dirty problems in the clean beauty industry”, from unethical sourcing to microplastics and packaging waste from brands claiming to be “green”.
Now, she is experiencing a mild sense of déjà vu. “‘Longevity’ and ‘skin health’ can become the new marketing language in the same way that ‘clean’ did,” she asserts. “The words may change, but the real question is whether the product philosophy and formulation have changed with them.”
Peters believes that truly age-inclusive products cannot be built for one demographic and shoehorned into everyone’s beauty bags. “Skin changes throughout life,” she says. “Formulas need to be flexible, blendable and buildable so they can be adjusted to the person rather than applied according to a fixed idea of what make-up should look like.”
A ‘less is more’ approach is particularly important when it comes to treatments that alter or augment facial features.
Dr Yalda Jamali, cosmetic physician
The messaging, she says, is almost as important as the formulation and finish. “Women should not be made to feel that ageing is a problem to correct, or that beauty has an expiry date. Age-inclusive make-up should enhance what is already there in a way that feels current and relevant.”
De Gunzburg, who was championing “real skin” long before the concept started trending, welcomes the progress but is also dubious about the spin. “Longevity shouldn’t be just a marketing word – it’s a new way of approaching anti-ageing and needs to be reflected in the formulas.
“It’s a lot more time-consuming and costly, but I create this type of formula because I refuse to let women feel self-conscious. They should be able to achieve that glow whatever their age.”
Quality over quantity
An unanticipated upside of the skincare evolution is the case for using less, particularly good news for the 40-plus woman who has spent decades being fed the idea that more products or steps equals better results.
Fergie favours “precision over excess”, a reference to ingredients such as concentrated L-ascorbic acid, the most common form of vitamin C, that often irritate skin. High percentages delivered in formulas with a low pH can be irritating, she warns, adding, “This is one of the main cosmetic causes of perioral dermatitis.”
Jamali uses a light hand in her practice, too. “A ‘less is more’ approach is particularly important when it comes to treatments that alter or augment facial features, [although they] make up a much smaller part of my practice these days, with much more of my work focused on improving skin quality.”
Significantly, she notes that even with extensive surgery – such as the rumoured six-figure facial rejuvenation undergone by Kris Jenner – mindful care remains key. “A facelift doesn’t stop the ageing process,” she says. “The face continues to age over the years, [just] on a surgically altered foundation. Surgery alone doesn’t necessarily improve the health of the skin.”
Jamali encourages her patients to adopt a simple homecare routine – cleanser, an antioxidant serum for day, a retinoid at night, plus a protective moisturiser and acid exfoliant once or twice a week – while Fergie suggests that “finding a sunscreen that doesn’t irritate your skin, so you can wear it every day, is the single most important thing to do”.
The move to minimalism is streamlining make-up kits, too. De Gunzburg’s advice for mature complexions is straightforward: “Thick foundations and concealers have the effect of making lines and creases more obvious, hence the need for more transparent, illuminating textures.” She suggests avoiding “heavy, mattifying coverage” in favour of hydrating options that support skin with reduced collagen.
In her personal kit, de Gunzburg prioritises a buildable base, such as her Brightening CC Foundation, a few pink- and coral-toned products “to attract light”, a black mascara and an illuminating concealer. In fact, it was de Gunzburg who created the cult Touche Éclat highlighting pen for YSL Beauty back in 1992. She also recommends a red lipstick – her “shortcut to radiance”.
Emma Peters has just launched Aleph Beauty in Australia and has noticed an uptick in interest around brands that deliver efficacy alongside a clear point of view. “What we are seeing, particularly among women over 40, is a desire for make-up that is easy, adaptable and flattering on real skin, without masking the face.”
While the movement is a step in a more positive direction, Jamali says there’s a gap the industry still needs to close: effective treatment for perimenopausal and menopausal skin. “Hormonal shifts can have a significant impact, affecting everything from collagen production and hydration to pigmentation and wound-healing,” she explains. “The conversation is still often centred on simply making women look younger, rather than understanding the underlying changes that are taking place.”
As “anti-ageing” makes its exit, consumers are left to sort the spin from the substance. It’s true that a percentage of the shift has come from marketers reading the room. But beneath the buzz lies an overdue idea: that skin at any age should be treated with respect rather than corrected and concealed.
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