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Rosé reached its global peak in 2019 and has since dropped by 1.7%. Photo / Unsplash
Rosé reached its global peak in 2019 and has since dropped by 1.7%, according to rosewinesworldtracking.com, which keeps track of how much pink wine is consumed around the world. But never fear a little thing like a drop in consumption because it’s not standing in the way of rising production
and higher prices.
It’s taken a while for yours truly to embrace pink wine, pale or not. Call me a wine nerd but I crave depth and have found it challenging to buy into the notion that pale pink wines can offer much of that. Over the past month, my tasting glass has seen the full gamut of rosés from $16.99 up to $50+ and, with few exceptions, the best wines cost more.
If pushed to name a favourite, I err towards chillable light reds such as Kloster Neustift Abbazia di Novacella St Magdalener, whose name translates to ‘the new abbey’. It was founded in 1142 and its vineyards are situated between 600 and 900m above sea level in Alto Adige in northeast Italy. St Magdalener is made from two obscure Italian grapes (Schiava and Lagrein) but it’s the fresh berry aromas, unmistakably dry style and that it suits being lightly chilled (and comes from one of the oldest wineries in the world) that make me like this wine.
Rosé can be any shade of pink, from hardly perceptible to pale red, according to the Oxford Companion to Wine. And here in New Zealand, most of it is pale and made from Pinot Noir, but not all.
Huntress winemaker Jannine Rickards makes a light red called Kuratea from Syrah (42%), Pinot Noir (28%), Chenin Blanc (17%) and Pinot Gris (13%). The whites are fermented on their skins and Rickards was inspired by the 2017 Foradori Lezer from northeast Italy; first made in a tricky year and captivating from the get-go.
Another interesting rosé is made by Rebecca Salmonds of Odyssey Wines. Her first 2025 Homer Sparkling Rosé is a blend of Pinot Noir with a smidgen of Pinot Gris for softness. She wanted to bring her grown-up children (and their friends) back into the wine-fold after observing their preference for pre-mixed drinks.
Central Otago’s mountainous majesty is home to many top rosés, including Man O’ War Swiftsure Rosé, a Waiheke Island brand made from Central Otago grapes in a strawberry-scented, dry style.
The 2026 Two Paddocks Central Otago Rosé, RRP $42, from the late great actor and winemaker Sam Neill, holds a special place in many wine drinkers’ hearts and the latest rosé is made from grapes grown on the elevated Last Chance Vineyard, overlooking Alexandra. It’s deep pink in colour, flavoursome and dry.
As is the new-ish, dry, but lighter-hued 2024 Real McCoy Orange Pinot Gris, RRP $45, which spent 20 days on skins followed by 14 months in old French oak barrels, which brings depth of flavour.
The 2026 Ayrburn Bessie’s Central Otago Rosé, RRP $55, is an impressive blanc de noirs-inspired wine; pale, fruity and dry. And the super popular 2026 Rockburn Stolen Kiss, RRP $33, is currently celebrating 20 years of production from winemaker Malcolm Rees-Francis, who brings a touch of sweet, fruity appeal to this wine.
High-priced rosé is more common than it was seven years ago and shows no signs of slowing down, especially in France, which is the world’s biggest producer, consumer and importer of rosé, followed by Germany and the United States. Collectively, these three countries consume 53% of all rosé made on Earth, but while their consumption has dipped, rosé is increasingly valued as a year-round wine in other parts of the world, such as here in New Zealand, says wine importer and distributor Mark Young of Vintners NZ.
There is a ‘rosé’ for everyone.
Some like it light while others opt for a deeper shade of pale red. Some prefer dry, others like the idea of dry. Regardless, the range and prices continue to rise.
Rosé of the month
2025 Maison Saint AIX Rosé RRP $36.99
AIX is one of the best rosés from Provence, where pale pink wines rule and are typically made (as AIX is) from Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. Dry with aromas of raspberries captured in a dry, memorable style.
Two top red drops
2024 Elephant Hill Stone Syrah RRP $65
Syrah remains modest in volume in New Zealand with 374 of the country’s 43,322 hectares of vines but the quality is impressive, especially 2024 in Hawke’s Bay. Elephant Hill winemaker Hugh Crichton co-fermented Syrah (96.2%) with Viognier (3.8%) to make this Syrah with lifted aromas of juicy dark plums, red berries and a sherberty zing. Eighteen months in French oak, 45% new, brings finesse to this age-worthy Syrah.
2023 Folding Hill Orchard Block Pinot Noir RRP $70
Arid, majestic and dry as a bone on a hot day, Folding Hill Vineyard in Bendigo, Central Otago, is one of the most dramatic corners of the deep south and home to Orchard Block Pinot Noir. First made in 2009, it is a Pinot with poise, dark fruit and complexity – and it will age well.
Meet the columnist
Joelle Thomson is a journalist, columnist and author who fell for wine after drinking a big buttery Australian Chardonnay in Wellington in the late 1980s. She later moved to the UK, and cemented her passion for wine, writing her first column when she returned to Aotearoa in the mid-1990s. She has since published 16 wine books, taught British (WSET) and NZQA wine qualifications, judged at wine shows and obtained the WSET Level 4 Diploma. She writes full time, loves the world of wine and is particularly partial to Pinot Noir, Chianti Classico and Barolo, among others. joellethomson.com
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