Pop princess Dua Lipa has all the right moves but was more Bianca than Mick Jagger at her intimate London wedding to actor Callum Turner on the weekend.
The bride’s custom ivory cady skirt suit by Schiaparelli couture, with a generously brimmed hat by milliner Stephen Jones, was reminiscent of Bianca’s influential outfit by Yves Saint Laurent for her 1971 wedding to Mick in the French Riviera.
This was more than a nod to Jagger, with suits becoming an increasingly popular choice for civil ceremonies like Lipa and Turner’s at the Old Marylebone Town Hall, especially when larger gatherings are planned later – the couple are preparing to host three days of festivities in Sicily, according to rumours.
Thanks to style leaders such as Amal Clooney, who wore a Stella McCartney suit for her civil ceremony in Venice with George Clooney in 2014, suits have moved beyond the confines of second wedding attire, such as Princess Anne’s short dress with jacket for her 1992 wedding to Timothy Laurence.
“With micro weddings, elopements and the rise in vow renewals, the classic suit is definitely making a comeback,” says Wendy El-Khoury, founder of wedding planning website Wedded Wonderland.
“They can be a part of a wedding wardrobe for destination weddings” El-Khoury says. “It’s difficult to get legally married in another country, which is why you have the likes of Dua Lipa also having courthouse weddings, which are suited to more restrained outfits.”
“It’s more about saying ‘when the big party takes place, we’ll wear the big frock’.”
The undulating sculptural designs of Australian designer Christopher Esber are frequently worn by Dua Lipa. Last year, Esber released a bridal collection featuring tailored pieces.
“A white suit can feel incredibly powerful on a bride, and for some women, feels more authentic than a traditional dress ever would,” Esber says.
“Brides are much less interested in following a formula than they once were. They’re choosing pieces that reflect their own style and personality, whether that’s a gown, a suit or a combination of both across different wedding moments.”
Melbourne dressmaker Sonia Cappellazzo has always included precise tailoring alongside embellished gowns in her Hawthorn atelier.
“Obviously, they’re not as common as wedding gowns, but there are brides who will seek out a tailored jacket with a statement lapel, beautiful wide leg pants or a three-quarter flip skirt in the style of Dior,” says Cappellazzo.
“It is the same bespoke and personalised experience for a bride as having a dress made, and just as challenging. To get the perfect arch of a sleeve, fold of an elbow, wadding and fabric takes experience.”
Cappellazzo sees the return of the wedding suit as a sign of fashion slowing down, for brides who are considering one outfit, rather than a full wardrobe.
“It’s an intentional choice, showing the restraint of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy at her wedding to John F. Kennedy Jr.”
“Suits don’t look loud. Some brides just want to look effortlessly elegant and beautifully considered.”
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